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On a sandy road in Addu atoll Feydhoo, a woman hangs up her washing outside her family’s traditional house. Marking the low wall of her home, black-lettered graffiti reads: “We want democracy.”

Along the coastal road connecting the islands, huge banners flap in the wind against a backdrop of stretching palm trees and white beaches. Music blares out of party campaign offices as people gather to greet and cheer candidates arriving in seaplanes.

These are just some of the signs of change in the southernmost Addu atoll. A far cry from past years, locals are now able to talk openly about politics and to campaign – and, most importantly, free to make a genuine choice at the polls for the first time.more....